Cordoba-born, London-based fashion designer Palomo Spain made quite the impression with his latest collection showcased at New York Fashion Week.
The 24-year-old, Alejandro Gomez Paolo provoked mixed reactions with his 2017/18 men’s collection titled “Objecto Sexual”. It translates as the sexual object.
Some people take the collection to be sardonic in its temperament. Others exhibit feelings of absolute awe and exaltation. And that’s what great art is! The collection left the spectators with polarizing opinions and created a passionate debate.
On the less intellectual side, the collection is truly a highly artful homage to the designer’s birthplace; Spain’s culture. He had the archetype of the Spanish fiery matador, the bacchanal folk traditions and the ever romanticized love between Lorca and Dali.
“I was always involved in activities in church, theatre, carnival and folk traditions. I was fascinated by the costumes required for these festivities, and all this was what I later translated into my own aesthetics and recreated in my designs. The light in the south of Spain and the colors are also something that have always been present when creating my pieces.”, Paolo told Metal Magazine.
Alejandro is largely influenced by Yves Saint Laurent and John Galliano from the years he spent at Dior.
In addition, I can also see a large inspiration coming from Victorian Era Great Britain. His time spent as a student in London ‘working with beautiful haute couture pieces at Liberty’s vintage deluxe department’ is also apparent.
In conversation with Leo Lalanne-Berdouticq, Paolo said:“I received a huge inspiration from Virginia Woolf’s book Orlando. There are probably not so many things in this world more romantic than her. Her perception of beauty, expressed in such a delicate way, has influenced me a lot when creating this new collection.”
In my opinion, there is satire in his cuts. The garments are highly political and challenge the heterosexual normativity and gender binarism. Furthermore, I sense a touch of a more non-refined, Vivienne Westwood in his ruffles.
However, he disputes any political motives in his clothes.
“I don’t think I play with the idea of gender, which I don’t have in mind when I create”
“I crave for the idea of men being able to wear the same beautiful embroideries, volumes and materials women wear all the time.”, he stated in his interview with Metal Magazine.
“Just like a woman can wear “manly” suits, pants or garments that are traditionally applied to men, men should also be able to make their fantasies come true through fashion.”
All in all, highly chivalric and virtuous!